DC jostles for position in fashion industry

By: Heidi Riviere/Contributing Writer

Posted: 6/1/08

Not so long ago, the idea that D.C. could grow into a key high fashion destination would have been laughable. Two women, Mariessa Terrell White and Cristine Brooks-Cropper set out to do just that. Fueled by growth in real estate, commercial development, and sports and entertainment, the city surged with vibrant life. The two women knew that the fashion industry would benefit from the same visibility.

They looked to America's neighbor to the North - Toronto - and found the perfect model for growing a fashion industry in D.C. Toronto started a fashion incubator in the 1980s. But it was government support for the idea that gave impetus for Toronto's emergence onto the international fashion scene.

Two winters ago, Brooks-Cropper approached At-Large Councilmember Kwame Brown searching for that type of support for D.C.'s fashion industry. Brown suggested bringing Ward 8 Councilman Marion Barry and Ward 5 Councilman Harry Thomas on board. Together, the three councilmembers introduced Bill 17-173. The bill, introduced April 3, 2007, would establish a commission to create fashion incubator programs, a commissioner of fashion arts and events, identify a site for a fashion retail corridor and brand the District as a fashion retail destination.

Mayor Adrian Fenty signed the bill into law on April 15, 2008.

"This is very exciting because it indicates the support of the Fenty administration," said Brooks-Cooper, who started the Washington D.C. Fashion Council in 2006. She said she is looking forward to working with the commission.

"I felt really excited and happy but at the same time we now have to push to get the Commission appointed, said Brooks-Cropper and White, who believe the fashion industry has crossed the hurdle.

The veteran fashionistas have worked in the industry for many years and are continuing on this path. White, an attorney, is now working on a new organization "Haute Opportunity Now" to brand the District as a fashion destination.

On her part, Brooks-Cropper, president of the Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce, is also continuing her grassroots efforts to organize and work with the fashion industry in D.C.

So is Abigail deCasanova, head of the D.C. Fashionistas Meetup Group which boasts about 900 members among local make-up artists, models, designers, photographers and shop owners.

"A fashion industry in D.C. is timely because there is so much potential here," DeCasanova said. "Fashionistas try to knock down doors and create opportunities. People believe in what they do and the group."

Andrew Nowell of Andrew Nowell Menswear is also sold on a commission on fashion spurring growth of a fashion industry in D.C. "Seattle, Chicago, New York, Miami and L.A. all have fashion industries that are supported by some government money," Nowell said. "I believe there is a lot of promise and chances here. D.C. is conservative because of the government being here, but I like going against the grain."

As for Councilman Thomas, the law might be what neighborhoods like Brookland need. "I always support fashion in D.C.," said Councilman Thomas. "This adds another dimension to the city. You can also promote retail quarters like the Brookland neighborhood in my ward that needs the boost from retailers. These neighborhoods could now become fashion quarters."

Stephany Greene, director of the University of the District of Columbia's fashion merchandising program and chair of the Greater Washington Fashion Chamber of Commerce, is optimistic about the commission eventually obtaining funding. For example, she has obtained a $15,000 grant from Tommy Hilfiger to support the program.

Diana Biard N'Diaye, curator for the Smithsonian Folklife Festival, is equally giddy. "What the D.C. government must realize is that promotion of fashion leads to the development of industry and capital."

She adds: "When Louis XIV wanted to stimulate French industry, he started the fashion industry." The fashion industry continues to be essential to the economy of France, she noted.

Lara Akinsanya of L~Shandi Designs also has high hopes for a thriving local high fashion industry. "I expect more programs would be developed to assist emerging designers like me in the initial stages of building our businesses," she said. "I also expect a fashion corridor that would provide an avenue for local designers to market their items."

Heidi Riviere is a local fashion freelance writer and blogger at www.divabugs.blogspot.com.