Levi's Barbecue serves more than great ribs

A line of men, women and children snakes outside the glass door, their stomachs grumbling as the heavy smoked aroma of soul food drifts down the sidewalk. They are all anxious to get their fingers on a rack of North Carolina ribs smothered in barbecue sauce, or sink their teeth in a crispy, golden serving of catfish.

This is not Outback Steakhouse or Applebee's, but rather Levi's Barbeque Restaurant, a soul food carryout quietly nestled in a small shopping center in Mitchellville, Md.

It is a soul food restaurant but its owner, Sue Kim, is North Korean. She bought Levi's in 1998, from the former owner and founder, Levi Durham. Durham also owned a franchise in Oxon Hill, Md., so he turned his focus to that establishment.

Kim received a lot of flack and resistance from Black customers early on. But Kim and husband Young Kim owned a soul food restaurant in Los Angeles for 20 years before moving to Maryland in search of "a better life."

Kim boasts that Levi's does more than just serve tasty ribs and chicken.

"We give [our employees] birthday parties and Christmas bonuses," she says. The restaurant also continues the tradition of giving area teens their first job.

"We [have employed] people in the community as young as 16 years old, and they work for us for years," said Willie Martin, general manager for 10 years.

Front-line supervisor Sherita Johnson has been working at Levi's for seven years, starting when she was in the 10th grade. Johnson cherishes the experience that Levi's gives her.

"They've always been really flexible with my schedule. They give us bonuses and presents, and they gave me a home theater system my fifth year."

Johnson, a business major at Bowie State, says she also learns the business side. As a result of Kim's goodwill and good food, Levi's has flourished into one of the most popular soul food restaurants in Prince George's County. The restaurant was recently given a favorable review in the Washington Post.

Kim has seen the business grow and has built a great repertoire with her customers. "My customers know me now, and call me by name, even if I don't know their name," she says. The restaurant doubles as a carry out and sit-down restaurant. That is the way Durham founded it and that is the Kim plans to keep it.

There is no wait staff so one has the option to sit down in the expansive eating area or take it home.

The main attractions at Levis are the North Carolina barbecue minced chicken and ribs, as well as barbecue pork. Even the hush puppies have a great flavor like no other.

Seafood fans will love Cajun-style catfish, crab cakes and fried shrimp breaded southern style. The traditional sides are available, such as their candied yams, macaroni and cheese, corn and collard greens.

The restaurant also provides catering, having hosted events at schools and churches. And it will cut prices for non-profit organizations.

Customers often come during lunch time and after work.

Every night after 7 is busy for Levi's, which serves anywhere from 500 to 700 people. Sundays are also a huge draw, as they often host a flock of people from surrounding area churches.